We are moving to Portugal. I say this to myself as I prepare to spend another day culling a lifetime of possessions.
We are moving soon. In January, the Embassy of Portugal approved our visas. The embassy notified us by email. We mailed our passports to the embassy to have our long stay visas stamped inside. After receiving our passports, the embassy FedExed them back to us with the visa stamps the following day.
I have many thoughts and feelings about immigrating to Portugal. Right now, I’m focused on saying good-bye to the American South, where I’ve lived for decades, in order to make space to welcome a new adventure.
There is a lushness and mystery to the American South, which I find in its literature and gardens.
During 2020 and 2021, I walked almost daily through the same neighborhood and took photographs from the sidewalk of gardens I saw. These were not gardens designed by landscape designers, but by individual gardeners who sometimes cultivated perennials, flowering shrubs and trees for decades.
There were so many incredible blooms and often there was just one day when the flower looked its best. I knew that was the day to take the photo, because tomorrow the bloom might be shriveled or gone.
The image I remember often has a crispness that the photograph doesn’t show. But, the photograph reminds me of a moment with sights and sounds and smells.
I can remember the two dogs that ran up and down the length of the fence, barking, whenever I walked by on the other side with my dog.
On one street, a woman neatly planted rows of bulbs in her side yard. I stopped to look more closely at the labels she had placed in their midst: Candy Prince tulips.
Even when the trees have lost their leaves, an angel and strings of dried eucalyptus leaves, and other yard art, rustle over the garden.
Further on, I see white camellias against a white house in front of trees. The blooms are glorious in the winter and create lushness even in the coolest, barest months.
The US is a country where people move often. They move for new jobs. They move again for better jobs. They move when they have children. They move again when they downsize. In this neighborhood, I could tell by the garden when the gardener had left. Some flowers would still bloom. But, something, I could not always tell what, looked different. The garden looked not as well kept, as if it were surviving on its own, as best it could. Weeks later, I might see a For Sale sign in the yard. Or maybe, I would just see a new person moving in. It was remarkable seeing how gardens thrived when tended, and quickly lost their luster when on their own.
Each place I’ve lived has offered unexpected gifts. This home had sunrises that were frequently stunning. Their colorful beauty was unexpected. Is there an unexpected gift you have found while living in your current location? If you’re willing, please share it in the comments below.
Good-bye to Southern gardens in winter. Good-bye to a beautiful, lush, green forested land, even in winter.
What to expect from the American South → Portugal in 2024:
More images of Portugal
A bookshop with titles by authors from the American South and from Portugal
Stories of navigating a new country, language and cuisine as an immigrant
The American South < - > Portugal: Loving, Leaving and Recreating Home is a reader-supported publication. Please subscribe to support my work. Subscriptions are free.
Hi Julie! Thank you for this article. I love gardens, and I came to love, and be mystified by, the American South when I stayed with my son in South Carolina for the last 6 weeks before my move to Portugal in October 2022. You talked about your sunrises there, and asked about surprises. My surprise here was the sunsets from my apartment window! They take my breath away. It's like having a new piece of artwork every evening!
Regarding culling: I gave away or donated almost everything I owned, and what was left went into an estate sale. The most difficult things for me to let go of were my art work (I only kept a few small pieces) and the cutting table in my sewing room. I had designed the table and my friend built it, and it really hurt to see it go. There have been moments of true grief when I think of those things I no longer have. The moments pass; I can acknowledge that I once had them in my life and will always love them. I no longer need them for my life to be whole.
I am thrilled beyond words that you and Debra will soon be living in Portugal!
Beautiful images and observations.